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Buyers Guide to:

Porsche 911 2.7 Targa

Useful Info


1974 to 1977

Fuel Type


Engine Size


Engine Type


Drive Con guration


Porsche Club GB

RPM Technik

Just Kampers

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The introduction of the 2.7 model in 1974 was a significant change for the popular sports car, as not only did it get a larger engine but also the addition of the ‘impact bumpers’. The latter were required to meet strict American regulations and the design would stay with the car right up until 1989. Fuelled by Bosch K-Jetronic injection, the new engine was intended to provide the 911 with a more relaxed driving experience and to improve efficiency, although it was still a decent performer with 148bhp enough for a 130mph top speed. As for the Targa roof (a name coined by Porsche) it was introduced as a response to fears that the Americans were about to outlaw full convertibles on safety grounds. That never happened, but it still provided a great way to enjoy fresh air motoring.

  1. Bumper mounts
  2. Front wings, around headlamp bowels, fuel filler, and arches
  3. Screen surrounds
  4. A-posts
  5. Sills
  6. B-posts
  7. Rear quarter panels
  8. Kidney bowls at rear of sills

The Checklist

  • Every inch of the metalwork for signs of corrosion. As well as the hotspots listed, examine the floor of the luggage compartment, the areas around the fuel tank and battery, the front and rear bulkheads, and the floor pan
  • Inside the front compartment, looking for evidence of previous repairs. The original factory finish wasn’t that tidy, so if it looks especially neat find out what was done and why
  • The quality of any bodywork repairs. Bodges and poor restorations are always a risk, and the cost of doing the job properly can run into tens of thousands of pounds, so a specialist check is crucial before parting with any money
  • The condition of the aluminium bumpers. They are prone to pitting, and while repairs are possible with shot-blasting and repainting, new ones can cost around £1,000
  • That the Targa roof panel isn’t damaged. Perished seals let in water, exacerbating the risk of corrosion in the floor pan
  • That the engine has been maintained properly by a Porsche dealer or specialist. A major re-build can cost £20,000 and must be done by someone with the correct knowledge, so be extremely wary if you suspect problems. Excessive exhaust smoke or serious oil leaks should ring very loud alarm bells
  • For poor running caused by faults with the Bosch injection system – parts can be hard to source. And don’t ignore a corroded exhaust system as it can cost around £2,000 to replace with original parts
  • That the gears engage cleanly with no signs of crunching synchromesh. The ‘915’ gearbox can suffer from an obstructive shift, while a major rebuild is likely to result in a £3,000 bill
  • That the ‘Sportomatic’ gearbox, if fitted, changes gear properly. It’s essentially a manual gearbox without a clutch pedal, and while not everyone likes it, it can work well if properly maintained. That said, some have been converted to a traditional manual ‘box so check to see whether identification numbers and paperwork tally
  • The suspension for worn dampers and bushes, and for corrosion around mounting points. Any hint of rot around the torsion bar mountings is bad news
  • The brakes for wear, while lack of use could have led to corrosion/seizure. New calipers are pricey, while even replacing the pads and discs all round can result in a four- gure bill at a specialist
  • For a tatty cabin. It’s a simple affair and everything is available to refurbish it, at a price. Ensure that all the electrical items are working, too, as age-related problems can occur, while corroded heat exchangers lead to problems with the heating system
  • That the paperwork is in order. History and originality is important with these cars, so be very wary of an example that lacks any supporting documentation

Everything Check Out?

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