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Buyers Guide to:

Porsche 924

Useful Info

Manufactured

1976 to 1988

Fuel Type

Petrol

Engine Size

2000cc

Engine Type

Water-Cooled

Drive Con guration

RWD

Porsche Club Great Britain

www.porscheclubgb.com

Porsche 924 Owners Club

www.porsche924.co.uk

Just Kampers

Odiham,
Hampshire,
RG291JE,
01256 862288,
www.justkampers.com

Background

Launched in 1976 as a replacement for the 914, the Porsche 924 was actually assembled by VW/Audi at its Neckarsulm plant. Going on sale in the UK in 1977, a 2.0-litre engine that was derived from the Audi 100 (not a VW van as many would have you believe) led some people to think this wasn’t a proper Porsche. They were wrong, as the 924 was extremely well-engineered and handled superbly. Okay, so outright performance wasn’t that strong but this was remedied in 1985 with the launch of the 924S featuring a 2.5-litre motor with 150bhp. The 924 remained on sale until 1988.

  1. Front valance
  2. Front wings, inner and outer
  3. Front wheel arches
  4. Door bottoms
  5. Sills, inner and outer
  6. Rear wheel arches

The Checklist

  • The bodywork for any signs of previous accident damage. Check the panel gaps for evidence of misalignment, and ensure the pop-up headlamps are working
  • Underneath as rust can affect the floorpan of the cabin and boot, the latter caused by leaking hatch seals. Cars built before 1980/81 were only partially galvanised so check early models carefully
  • The battery tray for rot as it can allow water to enter the cabin and fuse box, causing electrical havoc
  • Around the fuel tank as corrosion repairs are involved – the transaxle needs to be dropped to replace the tank
  • The engine for excessive exhaust smoke, low oil pressure, and oil leaks. Dirty oil will wear the valve gear, and some original Porsche parts for the cylinder head are dif cult to source
  • Whether the cambelt has been changed on time. Valves and pistons won’t meet if it fails, though (although they will on the later 2.5 engine)
  • For any signs of coolant leaks or overheating, causing head gasket failure – the position of the radiator makes it prone to damage
  • That the engine runs smoothly with no hesitation. Although the Bosch K-Jetronic fuel injection is fundamentally reliable (problems with hot starting were cured on later cars) air leaks in the induction system can cause problems
  • The condition of the electrical wiring for the starter motor and alternator; it runs close to the exhaust system and can melt
  • For any noises from the transmission/transaxle - the manual gearbox was an Audi 4-speed or Porsche 5-speed depending on year and an overhaul is pricey due to the labour involved in dropping the transaxle. Leaks from the heater valve can allow coolant to contaminate the clutch, and the torque tube needs to be moved to replace it, adding to the labour bill
  • That the gearshift on manuals isn’t overly obstructive as the long linkage can wear
  • That the VW-sourced 3-speed automatic changes gear smoothly. It’s robust, but check the condition of the fluid as regular changes ensure reliability
  • The suspension for perished bushes, leaking dampers, and corrosion around the mounting points. Worn front ball joints and rusty wishbones are also worth checking for
  • Brakes for wear and tear, although they are straightforward to overhaul and replacement parts are easy to source. The steering should be trouble-free
  • The condition of the cabin as the cost of refurbishment will soon mount. ‘Pasha’ trim
  • can be sourced by specialists but it can be expensive, but cracks in the dashboard are more problematic. Blocked drain holes around the sunroof can lead to water ingress and corrosion
  • That all the electrics are working, particularly the electric windows which are prone to failure

Everything Check Out?

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