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Buyers Guide to:

Triumph TR6

Useful Info


1969 to 1976

Fuel Type


Engine Size


Engine Type


Drive Configuration


TR Register

Club Triumph

Just Kampers

01256 862288,


The TR range of Triumphs reaches all the way back to 1953 with the introduction of the TR2, but September 1968 saw the arrival of the TR6. Going on sale the following year, Triumph chose Karmann to carry out a budget re-design of the TR5 which saw the model get new front and rear ends. The 2.5-litre engine with Lucas fuel-injection was carried over unchanged, and with a useful 142bhp provided the new model with lusty performance; it could reach almost 120mph and crack the 0-60mph sprint in less than nine seconds. Around eighty per cent of production headed to the United States where the TR6 proved incredibly popular, although those models used a twin- carburettor engine rather than fuel-injection. The main change was in 1973 when power was reduced to 125bhp for emissions reasons, and sales ended in 1976 when it was replaced by the wedgy TR7.

  1. Front and rear wings, both outer and inner
  2. A-post around the door hinges
  3. Base of the B-post
  4. Sills
  5. Rear deck area, especially the joints for the rear wings

The Checklist

  • All of the panels for corrosion, making sure that you’re not looking at a filler-laden bodge. A sound structure is vital so look for uneven panel gaps and sagging doors
  • Whether a previous restoration involved a replacement ‘Heritage’ body shell – some of the earlier items were poor quality. A bad restoration will cost a fortune to put right, so be very careful
  • The condition of the chassis as serious corrosion can affect the main rails and outriggers. Look for evidence of previous repairs, and check for rust in the floor of the cabin around the foot wells and seat mountings. Check the boot floor, too
  • Whether you’re looking at a genuine British model or a US import. The latter aren’t a problem, but don’t assume it is rust-free and make sure that a right-hand drive conversion has been done properly
  • The engine for signs of oil leaks, excessive smoke, or low oil pressure. Noisy tappets, a worn timing chain, and rumbling big ends are other issues. And if it seems down on power, a compression test is wise. Oil and filter changes every 3000 miles are best
  • For any signs of overheating. Lack of coolant changes can lead to silting of the radiator and engine block, while fitment of an electric fan is a sensible mod
  • That crankshaft end float isn’t excessive as a complete rebuild will be needed. Watch for movement of the crank pulley while the clutch pedal is depressed
  • Whether the original boot-mounted Lucas fuel pump has been upgraded with a Bosch item. The Lucas fuel-injection is reliable if set up and maintained properly
  • That the gearbox isn’t excessively noisy, and ensure the overdrive is working. It was A-type at first and J-Type from 1973, and they aren’t interchangeable. Clunks can be caused by worn universal joints
  • The suspension for rust around the mounting points, especially where the rear arms are attached – if it’s bad the body needs to come off to repair it properly. Look for sagging rear springs, and for cracks around the differential mountings
  • For wear in the front wishbone mounts and the front trunnions; they should have been greased every 3000 miles. A special tool is needed to replace the rear wheel bearings so listen for the tell-tale drone of worn items
  • That the brakes work effectively, although an overhaul is a straightforward DIY task
  • For a particularly scruffy cabin. Refurbishing isn’t dif cult, and all the parts are available, but the costs can soon mount
  • The condition of the hood, especially if it’s folded when you view the car. A tatty one will cause water leaks, damaging interior trim and leading to corrosion in the floor. Replacements aren’t too costly, though
  • That all the electrics are working as aged wiring and poor connections can cause niggling faults

Everything Check Out?

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