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Buyers Guide to:

Volkswagen Type 2 Bay Window

Useful Info

Also Known As

Type 2 (T2), Bay, Early Bay, Late Bay, Kombi, T2B


1967 to 1979

Fuel Type


Engine Sizes

1600cc, 1700cc, 1800cc, 2000cc

Engine Type


Drive Configuration


Volkswagen Owners Club of Great Britain

Just Kampers

01256 862288,


Bigger and heavier than the original, the development of the Volkswagen Type 2 became the ‘Bay Window’ model. Losing the split screen front end, it arrived in 1968 and benefitted from a number of improvements including independent rear suspension in place of the previous swing-axles. Engines were larger, ranging from a 47bhp 1.6 to a 2.0-litre with 68bhp, while developments over the years included disc brakes in 1971. Early models are recognisable by small rear lights, while those from 1972 got larger rear lamps and flared wheel-arches. Production would ultimately move to Brazil where they continued to be built until 2013.

  1. 1. Lower front panel and inner front valance
  2. 2. Roof gutters
  3. 3. Front screen surround
  4. 4. Chassis legs front to rear, including outriggers and jacking points
  5. 5. Floorpan
  6. 6. Door bottoms
  7. 7. Bottom of the tailgate/engine lid
  8. 8. Inner and outer wheel arches
  9. 9. Seat belt mounting points
  10. 10. Inner and outer sills
  11. 11. Around the side windows
  12. 12. Rear corner of the engine bay, including the battery tray
  13. 13. Rear inner and outer lower valance

The Checklist

  • The lower six inches of bodywork very carefully. It’s here where most of the corrosion strikes a Bay Window, and bubbling on the surface could be a sign of much worse things underneath
  • That the chassis, floorpan, or sills aren’t crusty and showing signs of previous patching. Sorting a bad one will be time consuming and very costly, so don’t rush the checks here
  • The sliding side door operates smoothly. It could just need lubricating but runners and bushes can wear, leading to rattles
  • For a tired and overworked air-cooled engine. A small amount of smoke on start-up is fine, but anything worse points to worn valve guides, piston rings, or cylinder bores and you’re looking at a major overhaul. And don’t forget to check for excessive movement at the crank pulley
  • That the cooling system is healthy. Check the condition of the fan and belt, and watch for signs of overheating on the test drive
  • The gearbox for any odd noises or an obstructive shift. Synchromesh wear is the most likely issue, but a reconditioned ‘box can be found at a reasonable price. Ensure there’s no judder or slippage from the clutch, either
  • That it pulls up evenly under braking, and with a good pedal feel. They could have partially seized through lack of use, and later models were fitted with a servo that can suffer from perished and leaking pipework
  • For excessive play in the steering. The ‘Bay’ can suffer from worn steering joints and wear in the idler arm, though neither issue is expensive to remedy
  • The suspension for wear and signs of corrosion around the mounting points. The latter can affect the torsion bars and shock absorber mounts, and will be costly to rectify if it’s gone too far
  • The condition of the cabin. It’s very simple, so wear and tear will be easy to spot, but budget accordingly if a refresh is on the cards. Re-trimming isn’t dif cult and all the parts are available
  • That any camper conversions have been done properly. Condition can vary widely, so it pays to spend time checking fixtures and fittings. And remember to check the condition and operation of the elevating roof if fitted – it’s often forgotten
  • That all the electrics are working. A ‘Bay’ has little in the way of equipment or complication, but aged wiring or connections can cause niggling faults which can be a pain to fix

Everything Check Out?

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